I travel from the southern tip of the island, where conditions are fairly mild and where there used to be a Viking colony, to the frozen Ilulissat Icefjord north of the Arctic Circle, where I go dog-sledding before it melts. As recently as 1850 the icefjord held a permanent glacier, the Jakobshavn Glacier, which has now almost disappeared.

By the author of The Neglected North Island: New Zealand's other half, IPPY Awards bronze medallist in travel 2021, and two other books that have come in as award finalists in travel writing competitions: A Maverick New Zealand Way and Iran: Make Love Not War.